We took the train to Chartes for the day. First, a word about French trains. They seem to be very prompt. When the sign says, departure at 9:36, that is the time that the train leaves. Unlike at home, when the Amtrak listed departure time is
merely a suggestion.
The trains are very clean and well-maintained. We had second
class tickets. There is a glass door
between class 1 and 2. Class 1 also has
a little table in front of each seat. There are restrooms throughout the train.
Upon our arrival in Chartes, we could see the cathedral with
its twin spires. The cathedral is about a 5-minute walk from the station. We made a note of a Boulanger close to the
station which sold sandwiches to purchase for supper on our return trip.
Our first stop was the tourist information office- probably not necessary since we had ripped out the Chartes pages from 2 guide books. The TI has a free map and souvenirs. Until this trip, I have always kept my guide books in pristine condition. I’ve changed my mind- take out what I need and avoid carrying an extra pound of stuff around every day. (Thanks for that advice, Ken).
I read that the church burned down in 1194. It seems that after St. Denis, the first Gothic cathedral. opened, many Romanesque churches burned. Speculation was that all the bishops wanted their own new Gothic designs. Chartes contained the veil worn by Mary at the birth of Christ. After much fear that it had been lost, 3 days after the fire, it was “discovered” in the crypt. People were eager to quickly build a new and better church to house this relic. Most of the cathedral was completed in 30 years, and it was completely finished in 60 years. In comparison, the National Cathedral in Washington, D.C. was started in 1907 and completed in 1990. Our first stop was the tourist information office- probably not necessary since we had ripped out the Chartes pages from 2 guide books. The TI has a free map and souvenirs. Until this trip, I have always kept my guide books in pristine condition. I’ve changed my mind- take out what I need and avoid carrying an extra pound of stuff around every day. (Thanks for that advice, Ken).
On to the cathedral. It reminded me of those long Victorian dresses- covered with lace, ruffles, buttons, more lace, more ruffles- the dressmaker thought she needed to put every possible decoration in her drawer on the dress. Chartes is covered with statues, flying buttresses, stained glass windows, more statues, more stained glass, etc. I loved it. I think it is the most beautiful church I have ever seen (other than the small white Norwegian Lutheran church I grew up in).
Looking at the church now, I am dumb founded at how they managed to accomplish this task- design it, locate craftsmen to make windows, towers and statues, etc., and then actually complete the work so quickly.
The church is famous for its 172 stained glass windows, including 3 rose windows. It is fun to look for the windows donated by the guilds which include a depiction of that guild- a shoemaker selling a pair of shoes, butchers, etc.
The outside of the building is covered with statues. My
favorite was Abraham carrying Isaac towards his sacrifice, with a ram below his
feet.
On the inside there are 41 statue groups depicting Mary’s
life (the church is actually called Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Chartes).
Plus a
huge statue of Mary’s assumption into heaven behind the altar. To me, she appears to be levitating herself, not being carried off by the angels.
Chartes is described as a book- since most were illiterate
at that time, the windows and statues depict the events in the Bible from which people could learn the important events of the Bible. (plus
others- like the assumption of Mary).
I had not heard of Malcolm Miller, the English tour guide, until I started reading to
prepare for the trip to Chartes. He is 80 years
old, came to the cathedral 50 years ago, and has guided tours the entire
time. We went on his tour, and enjoyed
every minute. We spent our time at three
locations in the cathedral learning about the west end windows, the North rose
window, and the exterior statues on the north side. He stated that a complete tour would take
about 2 weeks- which I believe. He
appeared to be healthy- so it is difficult to speculate how long he will
continue to provide his knowledge and humor. I asked him about the 3 little colored pins on his lapel. The French have awarded him 2
knighthoods plus another award. The pins were the signs of his
awards. Apparently the French are very
understated- no ribbons or medals- just 3 tiny pins.
Although the cathedral is full of people it is surprisingly
quiet. It was fun to see this cathedral
after seeing Saint-Denis, the first Gothic cathedral. It was liking first seeing a child learn to walk,
and then 20 years later seeing her as an Olympic runner.
Outside the Cathedral is a modern statue of Bishop Fulbert. He was the person who oversaw the rebuilding of the Cathedral after it burnt in 1194. When the statue was revealed a comment was heard from the crowd, "My God, they dug him up from his grave." It is a very stylized statute.
Outside the Cathedral is a modern statue of Bishop Fulbert. He was the person who oversaw the rebuilding of the Cathedral after it burnt in 1194. When the statue was revealed a comment was heard from the crowd, "My God, they dug him up from his grave." It is a very stylized statute.
Next, lunch at an Indian restaurant (10 E each). Excellent
food and service. Recover from the neck strain of looking up at windows and
statues for 2 hours.
Next, on to the stained glass museum on the north side of
the cathedral. It would have been a
disappointment if they had only their permanent collection on exhibit (about 10
panes from medieval windows and photos of some of the cathedral windows). Their exhibit of contemporary German stained
glass works made it worthwhile.
Lots of fused glass pieces.
Design on this one is in the lead more than the glass.
Depth in glass.
Design on this one is in the lead more than the glass.
Depth in glass.
Here's a door I liked in the courtyard of the stained glass museum.
Some time to relax in the gardens behind the cathedral before we left.
We also stopped at a stained glass gallery. I “commissioned” Al to construct a copy of a contemporary
piece depicting the cathedral. He accepted the commission.
On to a stop for ice cream.
By then it was 5 p.m. and our train didn’t leave until 6:30, so we did
some grocery shopping, and Al bought another connector for all the electrical
stuff we brought. We used this connector
to hook up our Vonage phone. The number is 651/204-0743. Amy called us on her cell phone- so we know that it will work from the U.S.
We now have 4 phones here- the apartment phone, the Vonage phone, our
regular cell phones, and French cell phones (so that we can call each other
when we are out and about). Ten years
ago, we had no phones when we travelled. How did we manage.
Our friends coming to visit in Oct want to go to
Chartes. I am thrilled to have an
opportunity to return to this lovely city and stand looking up for hours with
my mouth hanging open in awe.
Tomorrow, another market and go to the Louvre.
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